Ranger Dan

During our trips into remote locations and National Parks we have come across many Camp Host’s, a camp host is always a couple who keep an eye on the place and collect the $7 a night from the campers as they arrive. Bob at Ningaloo Reef near Exmouth was a ripper, he and his were not about when we arrived and when he returned we were out on the beach fishing. Bob came stomping up the beach looking like Jane Saville with a beard in a race.

This turned out to be an excuse to come and check out the new people, Bob stopped to part with his knowledge on everything from the Boston bomb to the bait we used and they way I lay my fishing rod down in the sand. Bob and his wife would be the camp host for the month of April before moving on another National Park to host again.

We left Bob and Ningaloo for Karijini where we noticed a sign “Camp Hosts Wanted” I mentioned to Shell maybe we should hang around and be a camp host here. When we pulled into Dales Camp Ground next to Dales Gorge we were greeted by camp host Mike and his wife from Emerald. The sign behind Mick was the same sign we had seen at the visitors center but this one had “URGENT” written above it. I asked Mike how do we go about filling the role of camp host?

Mike explained it was 2 days on, 2 days off and we got to use the hut we now stood in whilst on duty, a hut or semi permanent tent came with a kitchen, toilet, shower and a generator for power. Mike said he would get the Ranger to drop in on us and have a chat about it.

We set up camp and had just sat down for lunch before we headed into Dales Gorge when a 4WD pulled up and a Ranger introduced himself as Ranger Dan. From under a hat like that worn by the Bush Tucker Man, Les Hiddins came a warm friendly smile. As it turns out Ranger Dan had just come out of a meeting and they had worked out they wouldn’t need any further camp hosts for now.

Shelly offered Ranger Dan lunch and cold water that he declined says he’d just had his lunch as he crouched down to get comfortable under our shade and settle in for a chat. Ranger Dan had a friendly exterior a day old growth and apart from the great hat work standard green shorts and shirt to suit the bush, a very positive person that talked with great passion.

“Thanks mate but this is not a job – it’s a lifestyle”

Dan grew up on a farm in Yarrawonga on the Murray River 270ks north of Melbourne, he looked to be around 35 years of age and had been a ranger at Karijini National Park for the past 12 months. Dans first job after the farm was as a fitter and turner before he joining the FIFO crowd to work in mining. This life didn’t suit Dan even if the money did.

FIFO Dan pulled the pin and went to uni to become Ranger Dan, he decided the money wasn’t everything and the fact that your like a sheep when your mining, fly in, get shunted around on buses to work for 12 hours before being pushed back onto a bus so you can sleep in a little hot donger to wake up and follow the others back onto that bus. Ranger Dan said the hardest part of leaving mining and going to uni was picking up a computer for the first time in his life, we didn’t use computers up on the farm he said.

Shelly and I both said WOW what a story and what a great job to which he replied, “Thanks mate but this is not a job – it’s a lifestyle”.

I told Ranger Dan the story of Shelly’s choice of work experience back in school when asked to write down 2 jobs in preference. No 1. Park Ranger, No 2. Chef, the school couldn’t find her a rangers position for the 2 weeks work experience so a chef she became and been trying to get out of since.

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Ranger Dan lives in the rangers quarters in the park and has all of the things that the campers do not, hot water, power TV reception and internet but I have no doubt Dan would have no problem being Ranger Dan without all of these things. His work is maintaining the park to its clean and wild state, making sure the access to the gorges are safe and that everyone has a great venue to visit all year.

Working 3 weeks on and 1 week off gives Ranger Dan plenty of time to wander around in the wild, “I love finding remote gorges on Google Earth and hiking in for 2 days knowing I may be the only person to have seen this place in the last thousand years or more”. Ranger Dan was very appreciative of us enquiring about being camp hosts and said so 3 or 4 times during our hour chat.

Ranger Dan recently returned to Melbourne to see his Mum who had left the farm to live in the city, he told how much the place had changed in his eyes since last being there we are picturing Ranger Dan flying to Melbourne to see mum before flying back, not Ranger Dan he had never driven the Nullarbor Plain so he headed to Esperance where he picked a friends car who wanted it sent back to Melbourne not a new car either an old ute.

Over the next 3 days Ranger Dan had crossed the country doing near 5000ks in the old ute, well mostly in the ute, crossing the Nullarbor a tyre gave out so a quick change and he was on his way again before the old spare gave out leaving Ranger Dan stranded 30ks short of Ceduna at 4am. Everything I have read in the outback is, if you breakdown stay with your car until someone comes along. Not Ranger Dan, he set off on foot and walked all the way into Ceduna to get help.

I had to ask about some of the sights he must see with so many people and backpackers running around in these gorges on hot day with clear fresh water and water falls. A large grin came across Ranger Dans face, he didn’t answer immediately like normal he took a long breath his smile growing even winder “YEAH we see some sights”

Not going to detail he shared some stories of the sights at Karijini, part of his job is to walk into the gorges daily to make sure things are ok with the tracks and the visitors are behaving. The international backpackers he said they are not afraid of nudity Range Dan explained (again not detailed) of the many sights where he will drop in at Fern Pool or others and the backpacker will jump out of the water and come up to say hello or have him take a picture of them in the nude. Other times he has wandered in and a couple will be taking the opportunity of the remote location to get a little closer to each other.

Ranger Dan shared a story of a fellow male ranger who returned to the rangers station one day swearing to never go into the gorges again, the ranger had gone into do a routine check at one of the gorges to find 2 guys doing a spot of yoga in the nude, Ranger Dan said the ranger took some time to get over the sight.

Ranger Dan left us to finish our lunch of sandwiches that had by now toasted in the heat, but he left us like when we had met Mike we felt great, like we had met someone special.

Before he left we got a picture and I mentioned I would write about him on our blog, Ranger Dan told us he had just written a blog for ABC Open and they had come up and made a short video of him at work, that video is below and you can read his blog by clicking here

The Fisherman and his GOLD

We were cooking a Sunday morning feast of bacon, eggs, hash browns and a real coffee thanks to the pod coffee machine donated by Ace & Anni in the BBQ area of the Karratha caravan park when Steve wandered in and started cooking his breakfast.

He was around 60 years of age with a sad look on his bald head, we got talking and it became clear he’d had more wine last night than he should have due his wife Jenny being away for a bit, Steve was feeling and looking a bit dusty.

Steve was from Southern South Australia and a fisherman who chased the sharks but tossed it in to become a gypsy as he put it, “they call us trailer trash” he added as the first sign of a smile broke on his face. He and his wife packed up and hit the road like most grey nomads before picking up work.

In Karratha after 5 months off Steve was due start work again in a couple of days locally driving a water truck to keep the red dust blowing from the road during works before he heads to Onlsow to do the same thing in a month or so. During Steve’s stay down in Onslow his wife Jenny is heading to The Daly River in NT where their friends have just started managing the local pub.

After trading a few stories on each other travels Steve talked gold, he was the owner of a fine ($6500) Minelab 5000 Gold Detector and he unlike us had found what he was looking for mixed up in all that dirt! “Jenny is into it more then me but its addictive” he said.

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He had done his prospecting all over the place but had recently found 17 small pieces in Karratha in an area your car would cover but it was his wife who had found the larger nuggets. I asked him how much he had sold it for knowing what the answer would be “we haven’t sold the gold we wont sell gold” none do, well none of the people we have talked to have sold.

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We parted company and were going about our business when Steve appeared out of nowhere with some treasure to feed our disappointment of not finding any gold when hunting for it back in Kalgoorlie.

The 17 small pieces were ok but 1 in particular was a small nugget and had soft but shinny edges, it had the weight of something 4 times it’s size. Then he produced a small clear container full with cotton wool but for the 2 pieces of gold 1 shaped similar to a piece of coral.

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These pieces disappeared back into his pocked before Jennys gold appeared, these pieces larger and very impressive as they sparkled in the hot sun. Steve said he’d be in real trouble if Jenny knew he’d touched her gold, I guess that will only happen if she see’s this blog…

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Or we tell her when we drop in at the Daly River Hotel on our way past in a few weeks.

Coral Bay and Exmouth

G0030090-rAfter leaving Carnarvon, we headed North to Coral Bay, we were only gong to pass though and have a look but after arriving we couldn’t resist staying for a couple of days.

There’s only 2 caravan parks, a hotel motel and a backpackers, its all tourists, they run a few tour boats out of there to swim with the Whale Sharks we chose the closer of the two caravan parks, set up camp, then spent the afternoon snorkeling and relaxing on the beach (with a beer or two).

coralbay4-rThe next morning we listen to Adam Scott win the US Masters during breakfast then Chris had a bit of work to do so I left him to it and went off snorkeling, it was amazing the amount of fish swimming all around they kept me entertained for hours, in the afternoon at about 3.30 everyone on the beach started walking over to a big group of people standing in the water, we looked at each other wondering what could be going on over there, so after watching for a while we couldn’t resist so we went over for a sticky beak. We were standing in water up to our knees and all these Spangled Emperor’s they were about 60 to 70 cm and they were just swimming around in and out of everyone’s legs it was the most amazing sight, it turns out that every afternoon at 3.30 they get fed, we were very glad we let our curiosity get the better of us it was one of the highlights of our trip

After packing up the next day we headed for Exmouth, Exmouth was established in 1967 as a support town for the Harold E Holt communication station a joint venture between the Aussies and the USA, it passes messages between Australia and the USA command ships in the western pacific and Indian Oceans.

IMG_2711-rAfter having a quick look around we stocked up on supplies and headed out to the Ningaloo National Park, there’s a few different camp sites to choose from and we chose Tulki Bay it was closest to Turquois Bay where we could do some more snorkeling and on the other side we were allowed to fish, we caught a couple of nice bream and a long tom which I wasn’t sure I was allowed to keep but he swallowed my hook so I had no choice but to decapitate him, a very hard thing to do now after swimming with and feeding all the beautiful fish I think ill let Chris win our fishing comp, he was winning anyway.

As I was cleaning the fish Chris noticed 3 fins swimming in our direction and the next thing you know this 2 meter long shovel head shark swims right up to us with his head half out of the water it scared the s— out of us.

After a little debate on where our next destination should be we headed for Karijini National Park, we stopped to talk to Mike about his bike then drove 600 km east to Tom Price the highest town in WA and spent the night in the only caravan park amongst the ants, we passed through Parrabadoo a little mining town where the whole town seems to wear the same clothes, florescent yellow and blue shirts, and drive the same cars.

Press play for some Coral Bay Fishing

Mike on a Bike

DSCN1451-rSomething great happened out on the road yesterday. We decided that we were heading to Karijini National Park a place that everyone we had run into said “it’s a must see the most beautiful you will visit in WA maybe Australia.

Shelly is driving we are around125ks into our near 600 kilometer day that we started pretty late compared to other days, in fact we haven’t yet done this distance, it a holiday and not meant to be hard work, our plan has always been to be off the road early afternoon, anyway we come around a bend and down into one of the many flood zones this flood zone (a dip in the road or an dry river bed) was actually a dry creek bed and had a tree or two trees.

Trees are not common in WA but down in this little oasis we noticed a guy sitting down with a mountain bike between him and the road under the only shade for a long way as a car approached from the other direction and with the bike intruding into our space we slowed as the other car pulled to the side as it slowed. We continued on and I couldn’t get this out of my mind, what’s he doing out here by himself? Where has he been? Where is he headed? And the main question kept going around in my mind…

A few kilometers up the road I looked at Shell and said we have to go back “what all the way back” I said yeah I got some questions that I would love to ask him. Lucky for me my driver agreed, we turned back so I could get some answers.

We pulled in just short of the rider under his tree, Shelly stayed back and made lunch, I grabbed my phone to record the conversation and a camera to get a picture. As I approached he put his head up and gave me a smile, I said g’day as I crossed the road explaining we just passed him and had to come back for a chat.

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I introduced myself and he told me his name was Mike. I had already hit the record button on my phone so I can record it and post the audio from my roadside meeting with the lone rider, I asked if he minded to which he had no problem.

Mike is from Melbourne and had rolled out of Melbourne mostly on bike tracks, then crossed the Nulabour to Norseman, down to Albany and along the Leeuwin bike track into Perth, I couldn’t help but be inspired by Mike and feel I was doing this the easy way in the comfort of our 4WD, the Rooftop Penthouse and a TV I could whip out when the Bombers are playing.

This lone rider who’s been out on the road for the past 12 months didn’t get up from his seated position with his back against the tree so I placed my phone down in front of him on the box of Vita Wheat biscuits sticking out of his bag to make sure I picked up his soft voice.

He talked about riding the track from Albany to Perth to which I shot off “you would have knocked off 150 to 200ks a day” Mike was quick to point out it’s a mountain bike track not a paved road and he did 50ks a day at best.

A story he shared about the trip from Albany to Perth was a good one, he met a Frenchman on the track, they struck up a friendship and decided to ride as one, where Mike was drinking many liters of water a day the Frenchman had a cask of red wine to sip on as they rode. Mike had a huge grin on his face telling the story, they would pull up by 2pm each day and the French would bring out bring out the wine and all the nibbles for a fine French feast each afternoon.

Before I asked the main question I had for him he told his intention was to get to Darwin before leaving our fine shores and continuing his ride all the way around the world, north of Australia up through Japan and let it lead him around, I wanted to rip my bike of the top of our car and join him, I was inspired by this tired man sitting on a rock between Exmouth and the Pilbra.

I must ask the obvious one Mike? “Oh yeah that’s easy, much of life is a waste, I worked in IT back in Melbourne for the past 30 years and it was a waste of time, so I left” “I come into towns now and notice everyone is moving so fast, talking so fast, I guess I was part of that

Mike had just returned from Exmouth a town of 1800 people is not what you would call a fast moving town but when you ride from Melbourne to the North West at 50ks a day most things would seem fast, I couldn’t help but agree with him and admire him and his efforts even more.

We talked about the footy back in Melbourne and other things but I couldn’t help but wonder what had delivered him to this spot other than what he had told me, a marriage break down, a lost partner to that thing starting with C we all hate but touches us all in some way over the years? I didn’t ask the gentle but friendly cyclist. He did mention he had met a lady in Norseman that may change his plans, as much as he seemed keen to go back I hope he continues on for the trip of a lifetime around the world.

Mike followed me back to our car where I introduced him to Shelly and gave him a bottle of cold water from our esky, a bottle he was thankful to receive and excited to drink, he had plenty of water attached to his bike but none cold in the 40 degree heat. The bike was well decked out with a basket on the front and water bottles and water bags attached in the middle with a few packs hanging over the rear tyre holding his food, tent and sleeping gear.

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After getting a picture with him we said goodbye to Mike who was also headed to Karijini National Park, (we will be long gone by the time he arrives) we headed up the road with another 400ks ahead of us.

The outback doesn’t offer much in the way of radio so we have podcasts going something I can usually listen to and follow well, today I had no hope, I couldn’t get Mike out of my mind. What a ripper, what an effort to be out here by himself with only what he can carry on his bike, I was inspired to the point I couldn’t think of much else for the rest of the day.

Around an hour after the meeting I decided to play the audio back that I had recorded, my phone had heated to the point it had shut down and had that iPhone notice with the yellow triangle about the temperature being to hot! Once it cooled I searched for the audio to realise that due to the heat it hadn’t saved my recording that was running when it shut down! I was so pissed off!

So the above was done from memory, I had hoped to bring you the recording Macca on Sunday morning style of this guy out in the wild who did treat the first part of our conversation as an interview and did all the talking to tell his story. Even though I was pissed off at missing out on the audio but I very much enjoyed talking to him and enjoyed the rest of the day thinking about his journey.

Shark Bay

DSCN1123-rAround 100ks North of Geraldton was a holding cell for convicts, (maybe the Lankans in Geraldton would live here) we stopped for a quick look but didn’t want to be locked up so we took our pictures from afar and continued until we came across the Pink Lake, it was pink and lead us away from the road to Kalbarri to Port Gregory and a great surprise. The G on this day was calm and a picture of untouched seaside beauty, a coral reef 100 meters off shore protected the fishermen launching their boats from the sand to the clear mid north WA waters.

We had to backtrack before we headed north again to stop just short of Kalbarri and check out the bluffs/cliffs that looked similar to the Great Australian Bight, they were ok but you seen one, you seen them all. We headed over the only hill for a thousand kilometers (other than the cliffs) and the Murchison River presented as a sparkling apron for the town of Kalbarri.

DSCN1141-rWe chose the Murchison Caravan Park and they chose us for position 1A, the best site in the house right on the river (only the rarely traveled road between us) with a view up the Murchison and across to the ocean that kept us more than happy after we set up and wandered over for a dip to keep things cool. Shell whipped up dinner of local butcher snags under a great sunset that we enjoyed with a cold few beers.

Our early morning ride around town and the river was great before we headed into the Kalbarri National Park to check out the Gorge’s, the first one we walked down into they are very deep but carried more flies than water, Shell found what she calls a skeleton (see picture) but I’m not so sure.

DSCN1185-rNatures Window was a rough 30k trip down a red dirt track before we came into the car park and enjoyed some PB&J sangas with the flies and backpackers on a bus tour. We had to walk around a kilometer out onto the red rock cliff face to see the window, the rock like strategically placed thin blocks to create levels like Kramer was once planning for his apartment.

It was a little dangerous and extremely hot walking out but it wasn’t either of these that worried us, it was the FLIES! I don’t recall seeing this many flies ever and for some reason they liked yellow more than anything else.

We had to have been more than 100 meters up form the dry gorge floor when we walked out onto a narrow ledge to see the star attraction Natures Window, a shame it had no flowing water like the photoshopped image to promote the place but it was well worth the trip to see this place. A car parked near ours back in the car park had a thermometer on its window, it was no surprise to us to see it at 58c.

A few cold beers were a must after a day in the wild before we ripped out the TV and watched The Nugget to remind us of what could have been back on the Kalgoorlie Gold Fields.

Shark Bay World Heritage Area

Half way between Kalbarri and our destination we stopped at the Billabong Roadhouse for Australia’s most expensive coffee, a bit further up the road we passed the 26th Paralell and after 380ks drove into Denham.

Denhams population is only around 1800 but the place had a lot going for it, clear water a couple of pubs and caravan parks, plenty of backpackers Francois National Park to the north and Monkey Mia 20ks to the East. We stocked up on some supplies, Shell made lunch whilst I did some work and we headed into the wild for a few days.

DSCN1297-rHerald Bight in Francois National Park was our home, on the beach only 10 meters from the water. A swim in the crystal clear waters after setting up was great with the crabs, bream and whiting so we grab the rods to catch dinner, they were good eating too.

We woke for sunrise that reflected perfectly on the glassy water that was only broken by the fin of a shark cruising by. When the tide moved in after lunch Shell grabbed the gopro and snorkel to check out the marine life while I kept watch for sharks!

It wasn’t long before some dolphins appeared with one of them venturing in to the beach and only a meter from the edge chasing a whiting, it was only around 8 meters from Shelly before it noticed her and went around her before heading back out to sea.

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The best came as we were having our lunch only 10 meters from the water, a Dugong popped his head up out of the water only around 8 meters from the sand. Dugongs are funny looking things like a dolphin and a seal cross this one fully grown at 3 meters. This funny looking fellow frolicked gracefully in front of us for the next 3 hours only breaking the silence every few minutes when it came up for air.

Next up in our private marine show was the predator of the sea, it may have only been 2 meters but the shark was built for speed and it used it to round up bait fish in the shallow waters only a couple of meter from my toes. Not being a fan off fish at the dinner table other than shark I decided we could do with a feed. I baited up with a big pilchard and cast my bait into the center of the bait fish on the run from the predator that immediately turned toward my offering, my line went off! My heart went off! I got him…. SHARK!!! Now what!

It didn’t take long to realise I didn’t hook the shark, just a flathead about 1.6 meters shorter than my target.

The next morning we packed up and explored the other parts of the national park before heading back to Denham to get ready for the Bombers game. We sampled both pubs and checked out the locals wandering the streets (see video below).

Monkey Mia

The resort at Monkey Mia was fully booked so we had to make it a day trip to see the dolphins feeding, plenty of people lined the beach early in the morning, the water not as clear as it would normally be but it was good experience and well worth the trip.

IMG_2704-rIt was time to depart Shark Bay and head north to Carnarvon, this meant we had to drive south past Shell Beach a beach that over thousands of year has little conch shell build up (10 meters deep) on the shore. I got some good pictures of Shell on shell beach.

A bit further south was something pretty special, Stromatolites (living rock) these funny looking things are linked to life on earth and 3.5 billion years old. Stomatolites – are layered limestone rock built up by single-celled cyanobacteris (blue-green bacteria) which trap and bind sediments. Some build craggy towers, other build flat spongy mats.

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for our gopro on a stick video

A couple of hundred ks through the desert to Carnarvon and our destination and home for Saturday night.

Geraldton

DSCN1027-rWe drove into Geraldton and I was really surprised by the size of the town and how nice it was after driving for 4 hours through dry arid countryside it was a pleasant surprise to see this nice town laid out before us. After driving around looking for the shadiest caravan park (as in trees shade) we decided on the Belair caravan park down on the point near the lighthouse, we quickly set up camp and headed out to start fishing, sorry to say we had no luck.

The next day we got on our bikes to tour the town, we road along marine parade past the port where some rather sizey ships were getting loaded, along the foreshore its set up with BBQs a water park and pontoons just off the beach for everyone to jump off, we checked out the museum where we learnt all about the Batavia shipwreck.

IMG_1077-rThen we headed off to 24 George st where Dad went to boarding school in the early sixties, it was call Forrest lodge and is now a community center. We were allowed to have a look around, and it was a little emotional thinking of Dad sitting in front of the fire place eating his dinner so far from home.

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On the Sunday it just happened to be the Geraldton Cup and we couldn’t resist a quick visit to the local races, there was fashion on the field for all the lovely ladies, not so different to back east just a lot hotter and not as many falling over fillies later in the afternoon. We only had one win for the day and it was No 7 in the very first race, we got very close in the other races but close enough is not good enough in racing just like fishing.

We left town headed for Kalbarri and Monkey Mia just as sixty odd Sri Lankans were about to entre Geraldton harbor where our Caravan park is located.

lankans“ARE YOU KIDDING”

Goldfields to Geraldton

Kambalda SunsetWe spent Easter in Kambalda with the Bovalinos and some fine hospitality at there friends home on the Saturday night and then with Tom, Maddy and Eky from Noosa Footy Club on Sunday before Adam and Chris took off on a (less than sober) ride to the local hotel who had Matt Gresham playing (they tell me he was on X Factor or one of them care factor shows. He’s a local Kambalda boy.

After a largish Sunday, Monday was spent as a rest day watching the Hawks loose it again and seeing one of the best sunsets we have seen over the last 12 months in WA.

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We packed up and departed Kambalda once again to hit the goldfeilds and the Golden Quest Discovery Trail a 900 km drive through the goldfields that takes you through many of the historical sites from the early 1900s. First up was Broad Arrow, not much about at Broad Arrow other than the pub with the writing all over that we had been to a week earlier. We then headed west on the red dirt road to Ora Banda, this town not only had a pub it had a real gold mine still active. I think without the miners who fly in and out for work the population would be around 10 people far less than the 2000 when a dude know as Cashman found gold back in 1893.

Being 50ks West of the main highway we continued North on the red dirt to another ghost town this one was once known as Siberia now its just a sign a few graves in a small cemetery and a few tumbleweeds. They seemed to have placed a lot in the number of hotels a town had because its listed on each sign how many pubs it had in its heyday, for the record Siberia had 2 just a small town.

More red dirt on our trek North through loads of nothing before we joined the highway and drove through Goongarrie another town thats now just a sign on the side of the road, this place was once home to 1000 people, a railway and yep… 2 pubs. We decided we would sleep out in the bush at Lake Ballard where the Inside Australia cultural display lives. To reach the salt lake we passed through Menzies a town that has a nice looking town hall, a pub and a servo with many, many vehicle licence plates covering its tin walls.

Menzies unlike most on this trail is still actually a town with 2 people wandering the streets (towards the pub) 50ks on the red dirt from Menzies and we came to a large salt lake known as Lake Ballard that had camp sites with a fireplace to keep us warm and fed for the night. Once we had set up camp only 5 meters from the lake we headed out to meet the locals… 51 steel statues I only had one question WHY?

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Lake Ballard is 50ks x 20ks and the 51 statues are spread as far as the eye can see, the guy who did this is Anthony Gormley and they are actually scans of the locals… again I have to ask why? The place made for some ok pictures one in particular reminded us of Alfie Bovalino.

03/04/2013

The journey continued with a drive on the red dirt back to Menzies and then north to Niagara another place thats now nothing other than a sign and a dam with a comping area. Talking of pubs this place is up there with the best of them, it had 7 drinking holes in its day with a population of 2000. We spent an hour wandering around where the town once stood, its flat now with many things to remind us that it was a place that people lived, mostly old bottles including the ones in the pictures below, thick glass with the name Kalgoorlie across the bottom.

Next town was Kookynie a place that calls itself the “living ghost town” a place that is dead but people still live there unlike the others we had seen on the trail. The Grand Hotel still serves the locals and when we pulled up out the front an ute load of them pulled in beside us, we decided  to bypass the Grand and see if the National Hotel would serve us (the picture below answers that question). Still the best part of being out on the goldfields is the history and the sites that are now nothing but have plenty of info detailing what it once was.

We were still undecided on our direction, hang in this area and head back to Kambalda for round 1 in the footy or head to Cue in search of gold, Cue being the place that many of our fellow grey nomads saying was the place for gold so we head North to Leonora on the red dirt. Leonora was a place we wanted to be as its close to Gwalia and the former residence of 31st USA President Herbert Hover who once ran the mining operation at Gwalia but more importantly it was the site of the famous house on the edge of a largish hole in the ground. Leonora is still a real town 3 pubs still serving the locals a supermarket, 2 servos and a swimming pool. We pulled up out front of the supermarket for some supplies and on our return we noticed we had a flat courteously of the last 200ks on the red dirt.

He may have looked 98 years of age but this local veteran was full of help, he noticed our predicament and pulled out his tiny compressor and had the tyre inflated in not time. He told us he never leaves home without it, he spends most of his days prospecting (not fosicking) and has many flat tyres that he can’t change so the compressor allows him to drive home and have one of the two locals repair. He told us where to find the two local tyre repairers  so we headed in search of them before it went down. First stop nothing, second stop nothing this town is looking like the others that once had 7 pubs but is now nothing.

FlatShelly went into one of the local servos and publicly announced to the 10 locals inside “anyone know where I can get a tyre repaired” A girls dressed in mining type clothing responded with “my father inlaw is a tyre repairer but he’s out prospecting today” then another guy said “and the other one is out fishing” We get the prospecting, but fishing out here… all the lakes are salt lakes.

Whilst changing the flat a local law officer who had been in the servo when Shell asked told us that 130ks to the north was a town called Leinster and they had a tyre place we headed further north rather than head to Gwalia our intended destination, we didn’t want to drive on the red dirt without a spare tyre. Leinster as it turns out had nothing to offer our flat tyre so made the decision our best option was Geraldton, it may be 650ks to the west but it was on a sealed road and less chance of another flat.

Heading west we were soon in Sandstone a tiny town not to far north of our camp site at Lake Ballard last night and in need of fuel, the only servo in town was closed but had a number to call for 24hr fuel, Lynn arrived soon after our call and only charged us $1:80 per litre and commented that she and her husband set off on a trip like ours before buying the Sandstone servo not far into the trip. We stuck to our rule of no driving at night and pulled over 100ks past Sandstone on the side of the road and built a fire for our entertainment for the night.

The Beach

Up early the next morning and we only had 400ks to our destination Geraldton and it wasnt long before we passed another part of the Rabbit Proof Fence the same part we think that was part of the movie that led the 3 girls home many years ago. Around 120ks from the coast the landscape changed dramatically and became more like that of the south west WA wheatbelt  and even had a couple of hills before we came down the hill to Geraldton, its great to be back at the beach.